04.01.11 Mini-Reviews of Old-Town Takoma Park Restaurants

These are just my opinions. I claim no particular expertise in judging food and restaurants. I just know what I like!

Here’s a brief rundown of Old-Town Takoma Park’s eateries and drinkeries, with your blogger’s opinion of their merits.

Cedar Crossing Wine Bar and Tavern (341 Cedar Street, NW, Washington – just west of Takoma Metro). When Cedar Crossing opened a year ago last November, I was a huge fan. Finally, my hometown had a place where adults could enjoy a quality beverage and the food was truly outstanding. Over the ensuing year, I fell out of love. I noticed that it was impossible to fill up on the offered “small plates” without dropping a relative fortune. And the outstanding food became only good and then mediocre. Well, the restaurant manager who brought us exorbitant prices for iffy food was let go a few weeks ago and Cedar Crossing is now worthy of hanging out in. The place offers good food in a sophisticated, yet casual atmosphere, with notably lower prices than a short time ago.

Everyday Gourmet (6923 Laurel Avenue, Takoma Park). The lunch place with stuff to order from glassed-in cases closed recently, underwent extensive remodeling, and reopened as a pub under the same name. I heard there would be 20 beer taps, so I enthusiastically dropped in on opening night. I was disappointed, but determined to give the place another shot so I went back a couple of weeks later. The burger I ordered was fine. But:

• Among 20 taps, there isn’t a single creative selection.
• The place is very stark and barren. A lot of money clearly went into the renovation, but there’s nothing homey or inviting about the result.
• The bar stools are too short for the huge granite bar. When I gently pointed this out to the proprietor, he said it was a purposeful security measure to keep would-be robbers from leaping over. For me, they just plain make the bar uncomfortable to sit at.
• Speaking of the proprietor, he’s everything you don’t want in a bartender: glum, distant, and cold.

Geez, I’d love to have a great beer pub in Takoma Park, but this one is so ill conceived, I fear for its future.

Mark’s Kitchen (7006 Carroll Avenue, Takoma Park). This Korean-American diner is a Takoma Park standard. With an eclectic menu including organic selections, this is where to meet your friends and neighbors (with their kids) of course. The relatively recent addition of beer and wine makes Mark’s a place to enjoy, even when you don’t have the little ones in tow.

Middle East Cuisine (7006 Carroll Avenue, Takoma Park). The food is mediocre and the atmosphere is as well. Why bother?

My Little Bistro (353 Cedar Street, NW, Washington – next to Cedar Crossing). This is a very odd little store with surprisingly good carry-out roasted chicken and sandwiches. By “odd,” I don’t mean quirky/cool, but rather just plain weird – you’ll wonder how anyone came up with the assortment of items for sale. But the proprietor is really nice and you certainly won’t regret taking the good food home.

Olive Lounge & Grill (7006 Carroll Avenue, Takoma Park – it’s not really on Carroll, but rather off the parking lot behind Mark’s Kitchen and Middle East Cuisine). Run by the same family that owns Middle East Cuisine, the Olive Lounge offers an impressive selection of rotating beers, good pub food, and just the kind of atmosphere you want in your favorite neighborhood bar. If you’re lucky, you can reserve your own beer stein that they store for you, just like in Germany. The only real problem at Olive Lounge is its diminutive size – on busy nights, you might have to wait a while to sit and there’s not much room for standing.

Rosccoe’s Pizzeria (7040 Carroll Avenue, Takoma Park). When Roscoe’s opened, I was really excited. I thought it might turn out to be Takoma Park’s first destination dining experience. Boy was I wrong. The pizza dough tastes like cardboard and there isn’t much on offer beyond pizza. Even the drink selection isn’t anything special. Add to that kids screaming so loud you can’t hear yourself think. For 100% better pizza, go to Pacci’s Neapolitan Pizzeria in nearby Silver Spring (8113 Georgia Avenue). I have a friend who disagrees completely with my assessment of Roscoe’s, so you better try it for yourself.

Disagree with my reviews? Did I forget something worth reviewing? Let me know!

©2011 Keith Berner

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